Harness Training

Now that I know I will be going to Blog Paws with my kids, it is time to get them use to their harnesses again. Normally I would’t have to do this as we would have been on many outings during the winter but this winter was brutally cold and full of snow.

 

So my fur kids got to stay inside just being lazy if you can really call it that. Lol. I mean ferrets sleep around eighteen hours a day and the other six hours they play and get into mischief. More about that later.

So my kids haven’t been in their harnesses since October, well Manny was in his to go to the vet in November but that doesn’t count. So on Sunday I got out their harnesses and of course they had to check out the bag they were in and make sure theirs was in it.

Marylin still hasn’t decided what she thinks about them as they aren’t really stylish at all and she tends to be a bit of a Diva at times.

Manny pulled out his blue one that I am going to have to replace soon which I don’t know how he is going to like that since his harness used to belong to his big brother James of Jessie who went OTRB a couple of months after we went to Bark World. Manny will pout if I put the wrong harness on him. Guess it is like Linus®’s blanket for him.

Then there is Marcuz he has to have red or as close to red as possible. Maybe it is to show off his fiery personality.

While there are other styles of harnesses out there I prefer the H style as I can adjust it to the right size for each of my kids. Marylin should be done growing but that doesn’t mean she won’t put on weight like Manny and Marcuz do during the winter and then lose a few pounds in the spring when they blow their coats.

It only took Manny and Marcuz a few minutes to adjust to wearing their harnesses again but Marylin isn’t liking her’s and when I took it off she tried to hide it. The second time I put it on her she did the “I can’t walk with this on.” pose and when I took it off she tried eating it.

 

So while the boys are like okay when are we going somewhere Marylin is still at the training stage for now and I will work with her every day so that she gets use to wearing it again so that she will be safe when she meets her adoring public in May. Well I did say she was something of a Diva.

Have a Chittering Good Day,

Jo

Did You Know?

Did you know that a bunch of ferrets are called a Business? In the world of ferrets, pet hoomans say it is their Buzyness that earned them that title.

Did you know that a ferret can learn to use the litter box like a cat? Or use puppy pads.

Did you know that a ferret’s tooth grows from the tip up?

Did you know that baby ferrets called kits have 30 teeth by the time they are 3 months old and should have lost their baby teeth by the time they are 9 months old?

Did you know that adult ferrets have 34 teeth?

Did you know that a ferret can be trained to walk on a leash?

Did you know that a ferret can sleep up to eighteen hours a day?

Did you know that a fixed boy ferret is called a Gib and a fixed girl is a sprite?

Did you know that ferrets are illegal in New York City, Washington D.C, California, and most military bases?

Did you know that the ferret have been domesticated for over two thousand year?

Did you know that the ferret’s Latin name Mustela putorius furo means stinky little thief?

 

Now you know.

Have a Chittering Good Day,

Jo

Harness Training Pt 2

After choosing harness you want to use on your ferret. adjust the neck first if using a harness with adjustable buckles. Once adjusted to the right width you can leave the neck loop closed so you can slip it over your ferret’s head then adjust the chest strap.

Remember you don’t want it too tight or too loose. You should be able to slip your smallest finger under the harness if you have large hands then use the eraser end of a pencil to check.

Put the harness on your ferret in a room you have ferret proofed and let the ferret get used to having the harness on.

Many will attempt to get out of the harness and if it isn’t adjusted correctly, they will do so in a matter of minutes.

Continue to adjust until your ferret can’t easily get out of the harness and reward them with some Ferretone so they see that wearing the harness is a good thing.

I also use a belled collar as to know where my ferrets are. With Manny being the only hearing ferret in the business he gets excited when I shake his collar as he knows that means he will be going outside.

 

Once your ferret has gotten used to the harness on for more than a few minutes the next step is to clip the leash to the harness and play your ferret in the room.

This allows the ferret a chance to explore the leash while seeing that it is a good thing. It also allows you to interact with your ferret while they are getting use to the leash in a safe environment.

If you have more than one ferret like I do then you should put a harness on those ferrets you plan on taking for walks or other outings.

Manny and Marcuz are very use to the harnesses they have but when I had to get a walking jacket for Marylin because of her small size the boys had to investigate the new type of harness and actually tried to take it off of Marylin. Not that Marylin minded. As she wanted the harness off as well.

Letting the boys play with the harness before I put it on Marylin did two things it let the boys get use to the different harness and let them rub their sent on the entire thing.

It also made Marylin feel more comfortable by having the boys scent surround her.

Once the ferret is use to having the leash trailing behind them and are eager to have the harness put on. You are ready for your first outing.

I would only make it a few minutes in the yard. Let the ferret explore the area while watching for signs of stress in the ferret.

These include but not limited to:

Trying to climb up your pant leg.

Cowering between your legs.

Finding a corner and backing into it as far as they can go. However, don’t pick the ferret up to quickly encase they are using the bathroom.

If the ferret climbs your pant leg cradle them in your arms and let them get use to all the new smells and sounds from the safety of your arms or in the case of Marcuz the top of your head.

Remember this is all new to them so let them get use to the new world you just opened for them. First outing shouldn’t be more than ten minute.

A word of caution when walking your ferret outside keep an eye out for the neighbor’s dog or cat as many will rush the strange creature and many ferrets don’t see this as a reason to run away. Also look up now and then to make sure there are no birds that might swoop down and take your little darling.

The tandem lead is a great way to walk a pair of ferrets as it keeps you from being pulled in two different directions.

The biggest thing to remember is that you will never get your ferret to walk in a straight line, as they have to check out everything. Nevertheless, it is well worth the work to have people stop and ask about your unusual pet.

By harness and leash training my fur kids I’ve opened up a whole new world for them and I as we travel to different places such as Blog Paws and other events along with letting them play in the snow and chase the fall leaves.

With a little work you can provide your ferret with enrichment that will allow them to explore the new wonders that all curious ferrets are looking for.

 

Have a Chittering Good Day,

Jo

Did You Know…

That ferrets can be taught to walk on a leash like a dog. I get an assortment of different looks when I walk my three fur kids and the most received statement is “I didn’t know they would walk on a leash.”

Like training a dog, you have to have the right equipment.

What you need:

A harness

A belled collar

A leash

A tandem lead

Ferretone

There are different styles of harnesses to choose from and the one you choose has to fit your lifestyle. What works for me may not be the style or design you want. There are three main styles of harnesses and they are:

This is one of the cheapest one it’s made from a twisted cord that loops over the head and has a plastic slider that has a button lock making it look like one of those Bolo Ties   seen on Oil Tycoons but without the silver tips.

To make the second loop you take the line with the metal clip under the ferret’s body behind their front feet and clip it into the plastic loop on the side of the slider.

This type of leash is attractive to many first time ferret owners because of cost but the effectiveness of using this leash is almost nil. The button lock doesn’t stay locked and agile ferrets can maneuver enough to unlock it and slide it so they can walk out of the harness.

The Neoprene Harnesses are usually brightly colored and has Velcro® on the ends that go around the neck and around the body.

 

The Comfort harness is similar to the Neoprene Harness in design but also features buckles for added safety. The furkids buddy Snotface Critter wears one on his travels and Marylin wore a smaller version until she was big enough for her newest harness.

I use the H style harness mainly because it was the only style available where I live until recently when the store started adding more designs to their inventory and Most of the time you bought the harness and leash as a set. These are made from nylon webbing and are adjustable around the neck and body and has the same buckle as the comfort harness.

 

All but the string type harness have a D ring for the leash to attach to. It is important to make sure the harness fits correctly. To loose and the ferret will escape too tight and then the ferret won’t be able to breathe or move properly. Rule of thumb I use is one finger between the ferret and the harness.

Always start harness training inside.

I cannot stress this enough. First, it allows the ferret the chance to get use to having the harness on in a controlled situation. If the ferret realizes they can get out of the harness, they will do so in the safety of their home and not in the big wide world of unknowns.

Second, it lets you adjust the harness so that it is not too tight or too loose without the worry of the ferret escaping.

To Be Continued…

 

Have a Chittering Good Day,

Jo

“I’ve Never Seen…”

 

Most people finish that sentence with “Ferrets walking on a leash.” or “I didn’t know you could train them to do that.”

I believe if more ferret owners did take their beloved ferrets out in public more than a more people would have the opportunity to be introduced to the world of ferrets.

I am big on educating people about ferrets and the fact they aren’t for everyone. Those cute little balls of fur they see in the pet store grow up and required a lot of care.

Some myths are:

They are smelly.  While unfixed ferrets have a very distinct musky odor. those that have been descented and fixed have less of an odor but if bathed too much the skin replaces the oil that has been washed away with more oil which can lead to a smelly ferret. As can an unclean litter box.

They are cage only animals. This is one myth that makes me roll my eyes at the person telling me this. Ferrets are active critters that love being able to explore their surroundings and need at the very minimum 2 hours a day out of the cage to play.

They can’t be trained. Ferrets can be trained to use the litter box and with a lot of patience and rewards can learn to do some simple tricks. They can also be taught to walk with a leash and harness.

They are rodents. This one gets me really worked up. Ferrets are not rodents they were domesticated over three thousand years ago to hunt rodents. They belong to the same family as the weasel, mink, and otter.

They are great pets for children. I personally don’t think they are good pets for any child under the age of 10 and don’t believe they should be introduced to a family with a baby.  I am sure there will be others that disagree with me.

 

What other myths have you heard about ferrets?

 

Have a Chittering Good Day,

Jo

Litter Box Training the Ferret

     Like a human baby, ferrets aren’t potty trained and need to be taught how to use the potty. Many pet retailers will tell you that a ferret will instinctually use a litter pan but this isn’t true. Ferrets are considered latrine animals meaning that they have a bathroom spot away from their food and sleeping areas.

     While it is easier to train a younger ferret to use the litter box an older ferret can also be taught to use one it just takes time and a lot of patience.

Things you will need:

A litter box:

 

Non-clumping litter:

 

Some kind of treat or reward:

   

Deterrent:

Bitter Apple® or equivalent

Cleaning supplies:

  paper towels, pet accident cleaner, non-scented dish soap.

     The first thing to remember is that every ferret is different and not all techniques will work all ferrets.

     The second thing is not to expect a ferret to use a litter box 100% of the time. Ferrets are in constant motion and the need to stop doing something to go find the bathroom is equal to the small child too engrossed in playing to realize just what that feeling is until it is too late.

The Litter Box:

     When buying a litter box you need to consider several things from the size of your ferret. Males can end up weighing anywhere from 4 to 5 pounds and most females can top the scale at 3 pounds. Boys can be a lot longer than girls can.

     How many ferrets will be sharing the litter box? The more ferrets using one box increases the frequency that you will need to change the litter.

     Is your ferret finicky about others using the same box?

     Does he/she like snorkeling in the litter?

     Depending on the pet retailer, the types of litter pans maybe limited to starter pan kits and cat pans. The starter kit is all right for when the ferret is still a kit but they can quickly outgrow it.

     Other options are the pans made for rabbits and because of their shape fit nicely into a corner of the cage. Cat pans are good for the younger and healthy ferrets who are able to jump over the high side of the pan. You can buy litter boxes that are covered giving privacy.

     I personally would stay away from the motorized self-cleaning litter boxes because of a ferret’s need to investigate everything that piques their curiosity.

     While almost all litter boxes are made of plastic and are easy to clean. There are disposable ones on the market that are made from cardboard and are made to put into the corner of a room. A litter box should be made available outside the cage and in their play area.

The Litter:

     There are several types of litter on the market now. These range from the traditional cat litter made from unscented grey clay granules to litter made for specific species. You don’t want to use clumping litter or wood shavings.

     Clumping litter may make for easy clean up but it can be problematic to a ferret that ingests some of it. Clumping litter absorbs liquid swelling and this can cause an obstruction in a ferret any where from the throat all the way to the end of the line.

     Wood shaving can cause respiratory distress and skin irritations from the oils that are present in the shavings. Cedar and pine shavings can also cause other problems if ingested.

     I have used torn up newspaper as litter but if you have a paper-loving ferret expect a lot of it to be all over the cage. Lance likes the feel of the torn strips and will take pieces out litter box before it has been used and will create a two-inch high pile to play with.

     Lance and James both like digging in a clean litter box until one corner is empty and piled beside the litter box. Some ferrets won’t use a litter box another ferret has used.

     Gweny was one such ferret and would relieve herself next to her litter box until it was changed. The boys don’t seem to care. I have been told that ferrets won’t use a litter box that a cat has used but I don’t have any first hand knowledge if it is true or not.

The Training:

     The main objective is to get the ferret to realize that the litter box is the bathroom and not some nice corner. This can be achieved by rewards, being persistent, and patient. Again, a ferret will not use a litter box 100% of the time.

     The first technique is just getting your ferret to recognize that the litter box is the place to go to the bathroom. This can be achieved by confining the ferret in a smaller cage with the litter pan on one side his bedding in the middle and food and water on the other side.

     Unless a ferret is injured or sick it will not normally defecate on it’s bedding or near its food. A ferret will use the litter box upon waking. Once he gets used to using the box you can move him to a larger cage and he should use the litter box.

     The second technique is the reward system. Every time you see your ferret use the litter box you reward him/her with a treat. Ferretone® is a good choice in that most ferrets are addicted to the taste and will do almost anything for it.

     Ferrets are intelligent and will try to psych you into thinking that they have gone in the litter box just to get the Ferretone® or let out of the cage. Once out they will scurry to their favorite corner and go.

     Being aware of what your ferret is doing outside of his/her cage you can re-enforce where the appropriate place to go to the bathroom is. Most ferrets need the litter box when they wake up, an hour after eating, and about ten to fifteen minutes once out of their cage.

     Watching for signs that a ferret is looking for a likely place to go include sniffing around corners, racing from on corner to another, and backing up into a corner with his/her tail arched over his/her back and squatting.

     If you see your ferret doing this pick him/her up and put him/her in the nearest litter box. Some will jump right out of it because their attention span is short they may think they have already gone. Put the ferret back in the box and keep doing it until they go. Once he/she has gone in the litter box give the ferret lots of praise and a treat to re-enforce that's the proper place to go is.

The Clean-up/Use of Deterrent

     The litter box needs to be scooped out daily and the litter changed every two to three days. This depends on the number of ferrets using the box and if a ferret has decided the box is too dirty to use.

     The litter box should be scrubbed with weekly with regular non-scented dish soap and water letting it air dry or drying it with a towel before refilling with litter.

     Accidents will happen even with the best trained ferret. Ferret poop is easily cleaned up with a paper towel and the area should be cleaned with a cleaning agent made especially for pet accidents.

     A ferret has exceptional smell and will be able to sniff out where another ferret has gone and will think that it where the bathroom is.

     If a ferret insists on going in the same area repeatedly you can either put a litter pan there or if the spot is inconvenient you can spray the area with a deterrent such as Bitter Apple® or the equivalence.

     All comments are welcomed and appreciated. What other subjects would you like to know about?

Jo